Alguns segredos para se obter o melhor das suas flores

Cultivo Vital

hempadao 19 outubro, 2014

por Sergio Vidal, autor do livro Cannabis Medicinal Introdução ao Cultivo Indoor

Muitas das perguntas dos leitores se referem a como iniciar seus jardins, ou como obter as melhores flores. Sinto na maioria das mensagens certa ansiedade de quem precisa de todas as respostas para atuar em algo do qual pouco se sabe.

É óbvio que um dos fatores principais para se obter as melhores flores é manter, desde o início do cultivo todos os cuidados em níveis ótimos. Usar um bom solo para germinar as plantas; transplantá-las para um vaso maior no tempo certo; garantir que elas tenham um bom crescimento vegetativo e um crescimento radicular excelente; todas são ótimas maneiras de preparar a planta para a floração perfeita.

Porém alguns detalhes são importantes para garantir que sua colheita seja a melhor possível. Os cuidados principais se dão durante o período de floração e no pós-colheita. Já sabemos que durante o vegetativo a planta se alimenta mais dos macronutrientes Nitrogênio (N), Fósforo (P), Potássio (K), Cálcio (Ca), Magnésio (Mg), e também de vitaminas e micronutrientes. Porém na floração o equilíbrio entre esses elementos é crucial para não apenas determinar o tamanho das flores e a qualidade da resina, mas também do sabor e aroma final do fumo. A partir da 4/5 semana de floração a necessidade de Nitrogênio da planta começa a cair gradualmente, chegando quase a 0 nas últimas 2/3 semanas de floração. O excesso de Nitrogênio na planta interfere no sabor final das flores. O mesmo ocorre com o Fósforo, que é consumido em grande quantidade pela planta, mas nas últimas 2/3 semanas de floração, o excesso de Fósforo pode deixar um gosto amargo nas flores. Para flores mais gordas e saudáveis é importante também ficar atento à dieta de micronutrientes. Eles são essenciais para a boa formação flora e a produção de resina. Os mais usados na floração são o cobre e o enxofre, mas todos são bastante usados também. Alguns fertilizantes especializados em aumentar o rendimento das flores possuem elevadas doses desses micronutrientes.

Para controlar isso depende do meio de cultivo empregado. Em cultivos hidropônicos ou com solos inertes é mais fácil controlar isso, pois basta trocar a receita dos fertilizantes utilizados. Geralmente os kits vem explicando as formas de uso, e para qual fase deve ser aplicado. Os mais atuais vem com programas que dão dosagens específicas de acordo com cada semana de crescimento das plantas. Cultivadores que usam solos orgânicos precisam de mais trabalho, pois precisam planejar antecipadamente a dieta das plantas. A que se levar em conta que os nutrientes contidos nos substratos tem um tempo mais lento para serem absorvidos pelas plantas. O ideal é preparar um solo mais leve, que seja rico em algum nitrogênio, mas apenas o suficiente para garantir uma dieta mínima, que dure no máximo até faltar 4 semanas para colher. Se faltar algum nitrogênio é possível complementar com nutriente adicional posteriormente.

A respeito do embate sobre se entre o cultivo com fertilizantes químicos ou orgânicos qual dos dois daria as melhores colheitas, prefiro apenas falar da minha experiência pessoal. Cultivando com químicos se tira um sabor muito bom também das flores, principalmente se você parar de usar fertilizantes 3/2 semanas antes de colher, usando apenas água e fazer lavagens no solo. Isso serve para tirar os excessos de nutrientes do solo e melhorar o sabor do fumo. Mas nada supera o sabor, aroma e efeitos de plantas cultivadas organicamente. Além disso, depois que se aprende sobre nutrientes e suas fontes orgânicas e se compreende melhor o ritmo de nutrição das genéticas que cultivamos, tudo fica mais fácil. É impossível não amar os orgânicos. Abaixo um guia resumido dos cuidados em cada fase para garantir as melhores flores.

Germinando

Vasos de 3l para germinar. Assim as plantas crescem saudáveis e com espaço para crescerem rápido. O solo é uma mistura de 40% pó de coco, 20% perlita, 10% vermiculita, 10% húmus de minhoca e 20% terra vegetal. Coloco também uma colher rasa de sopa de calcário dolomítico a cada 3l de solo

Vegetativo

Quando as plantas estão com 15/30cm de altura, transplantar para vasos de 30l e fazer amarras ou podas nas plantas, forçando elas ramificarem melhor e criar vários topos. Assim a colheita será maior e de melhor qualidade. O solo do vegetativo é 40% pó de coco, 20% perlita, 10% humus de minhoca, 10% esterco de vaca, 15% terra vegetal e 5% farinha de osso. Coloco também uma colher rasa de sopa de calcário dolomítico a cada 3l de solo. Sempre que transplantar alguma planta, regar em abundância com água e um pouco de melaço, numa proporção de 1 colher de sopa por litro. Isso ajuda a planta a se recuperarem melhor do stress do transplante.

Floração

Quando as plantas vão florir transplantar para vasos de 50/70l. O solo deve ser leve, apenas para garantir que as raízes possam continuar se desenvolvendo, e também levar nutrientes especiais que são requeridos para a floração com maior intensidade. A proporção é 60% pó de coco, 20% perlita, 10% farinha de osso e 10% guano de morcego. Coloco também uma colher rasa de sopa de calcário dolomítico a cada 3l de solo. Deixar a planta nesse solo ainda vegetando, após transplantá-la, por 2 semanas, para que possa se recuperar do choque do transplante antes de começar a florir. Na floração regar a cada 3 dias com uma diluição de guano de morcego e melaço de cana e 1 vez por semana chá de banana, até faltar 3 semanas pra colher. Então nessas últimas 3 semanas só água+melaço.

É possível fazer chás nutritivos para as plantas, tanto na floração como no vegetativo. O sistema é o mesmo. Usar bomba de ar para aquários em um balde com água e, de acordo com a fase da planta, mudando o tipo de substratos nutritivos colocado no chá. As bactérias aeróbicas se proliferam aos milhões por causa da bomba de aquário e tornam o chá um fertilizante orgânico riquíssimo, com diferentes nutrientes, de acordo com o substrato que se coloca nele. É possível usar humus de minhoca, esterco, um pouco de farinha de osso, melaço de cana e de calcário para alimentar elas no vegetativo. Às vezes spirulina, que é uma alga comum em lojas naturebas, umas excelente fonte de proteínas e outros nutrientes. Muito boa para o vegetativo. Para a floração húmus, apenas quando uma ou outra planta sente mais fome por Nitrogênio. Em geral, apenas guano de morcego, farinha de osso e melaço. Na floração também é possível fazer o famoso chá de banana e dar uma vez por semana, para reforçar as doses de potássio, fósforo, vitaminas e micronutrientes. Ele é feito batendo algumas bananas no liquidificador e depois colocando essa mistura numa panela e levando ao fogo até começar a ferver. Então você desliga e espera esfriar completamente. Peneira tudo e o caldo é usado diluído em água, regando normalmente na chamada fertirrigação.

Todo esse tipo de nutrição orgânica ajuda as plantas até não apenas um sabor e aroma formidavéis, mas um poder medicinal e psicoativo muito grande e especial. Acredito que cultivando organicamente tiramos o melhor das plantas, sempre. Cultivando as plantas organicamente ou quimicamente, tendo os cuidados descritos acima você terá ótima colheitas. Também é muito importante respeitar o tempo certo de amadurecimento das plantas. As plantas só podem ser colhidas quando pararam de crescer novos pistilos, todos os pistilos já mudaram de cor e amadureceram e quando mais de quase todos os tricomas, as glandulas de resina, tiverem mudado de cor. Primeiro eles nascem transparentes, depois se tornam brancos e então ambar, as vezes avermelhado. Agora, vamos ao segundo passo mais importante para se ter flores perfeitas.

Para secar e curar da maneira ideal você deve cortar a planta e retirar todas as folhas maiores, chamadas de folhas de água. Após isso, você usa um varal, ou improvisa um, pode usar cabides pra ajudar, e pendura as plantas para que ela possa secar. Devem secar em local fresco, sem qualquer umidade, escuro e muito ventilado. Após 20/30 dias as flores estarão totalmente secas. Então você pode fazer a segunda parte da manicura e tirar as folhas menores, próximas das flores. É importante que a planta seque lentamente, pois quanto mais lentamente ela secar, melhor será o seu gosto, aroma e efeito. É fundamental que ela seque naturalmente, sem pressa. Se o clima for muito úmido é a única exceção que você deve tentar acelerar a secagem das plantas para evitar que elas mofem. Só assim as plantas terão o aroma e sabor perfeitos também. Porque mofo é algo que se deve evitar, pois flores mofadas são lixo. Então, se a umidade da sua cidade for muito alta sempre, ou tiver muito úmido nos dias da colheita, procure estratégias pra secar rápido. Incluindo: Manicurar totalmente a planta, até as folhas menores, logo que colher, e separa flores dos galhos e talos, para que sequem mais rápido; deixá-las secando em algum ambiente com ar-condicionado, pois o aparelho faz o ar ficar mais seco; deixar as plantas em cima de algum lugar que seja um pouco quente, mas não muito a ponto de torrar as flores. O ideal é montar uma estrutura de tela, para por as belotas em cima, e colocar uma lâmpada fluorescentes compacta próxima das flores, sem no entanto tocá-las. Mas isso só em caso de climas extremamente úmidos.

O último passo é a cura. Após as flores estarem bem secas, devem ser lacradas num recipiente hermético por 24/72hs. Então é aberto novamente deixado assim por 4/8hs. Depois é fechado novamente e só é aberto 1 vez por semana para as flores “respirarem”. Podem ser usados recipientes de vidro ou madeira. Dizem que os de madeira de lei são os melhores, especialmente o cedro. Caixas ou armários para colecionadores de charuto são perfeitas. Vasos de plástico ou metal devem ser evitados.

Mais uma vez espero que tenham gostado do texto e, principalmente, que ele tenha ajudado a esclarecer mais a respeito da natureza da cannabis e do seu cultivo. Enviem suas mensagens, críticas, etc e, principalmente as dúvidas, preferencialmente com fotos, para o e-mail:hempadao@gmail.com

Até semana que vem! namastê!

Consulte outros artigos sobre cultivo: Clique Aqui  e aqui

*Antropólogo, Redutor de Danos e Cidadão Ativista engajado na construção de um Brasil com leis e políticas públicas sobre maconha e outras drogas mais humanas e eficientes.



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    – Orgânico: textura mais macia, flores mais homogêneas
    -Mineral: textura mais seca, flores mais quebradiças e menos homogêneas.

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